Skiing the Swiss Alps - Wengen / Grindewald / Murren (without breaking the bank)
We’ve been doing ski vacations all over the US, but lately it feels like Epic / Icon are making these trips cost an arm and a leg. We’ve been talking about doing a ski trip overseas and last year we ditched the Epic pass and hit Europe for the big ski trip. If you are thinking about skiing the Swiss Alps but worried about cost? You’re not alone. Switzerland has a reputation for luxury—and price tags to match. But after a recent trip to Wengen, I’m here to tell you: it doesn’t have to be crazy expensive. In fact, we ran the numbers and it turned out to be a better deal than booking that flight to Denver or Salt Lake from U.S., especially during peak or late season. It’s not that Switzerland is cheap, but instead US based ski companies have made skiing in the U.S. so much pricier than it used to be….
Let’s break it down.
✈️ Getting There
Sure, airfare to Zurich can feel steep—typically $1000–$1200 per person. But compare that to flights to U.S. resorts like Salt Lake City or Denver during ski season (often $400–$500), and it’s not that far off. And when you factor in what you’ll spend on lodging, food, and lift tickets? Switzerland might actually come out ahead.
💡 Tip: Keep an eye on airfare trackers and be flexible on travel dates—you might snag a deal.
Once in Zurich, there are trains departing roughly hourly from Zurich Airport (Zurich Flughafen station) to Wengen. The train will take about 3 hours and will be between 80-150 each way depending on if you book in advance. One pro tip - don’t book a too early flight home unless you plan on sleeping in Zurich before your flight out. Trains run frequent, but not 24 hours a day. Book on Trainline.com
🛏️ Lodging: The Hidden Savings
This is where Switzerland really surprised me.
After some digging and a few emails to independent hotels, we found a 6-night package in Wengen for about 1200–1300 Swiss Francs per person (around $1400 USD). And get this — that price included:
- Breakfast and dinner every day
- 5-day Jungfrau ski pass (covering Wengen, Grindelwald, and Mürren)
We stayed at a small, family-run hotel just a short walk downhill from the center of Wengen. It was simple but charming, and the food? Way better than expected.
🎿 Skiing the Jungfrau Region
The Jungfrau ski pass gives you access to both sides of the Lauterbrunnen valley — and trust me, you’ll want to explore both.
🏔️ Murren / Schilthorn
- Smaller area: ~54 km of trails
- Higher vertical drop: 1456 m
- More expert terrain: 22%
If you’re an expert skier and love steep, challenging runs, Mürren is your spot. If that’s your jam, Consider staying in the town of Mürren for easier access to the Schilthorn lifts.
⛷️ Männlichen – Grindelwald / Wengen
- Larger area: ~100 km of trails
- More intermediate/easy terrain: 55% intermediate, 32% easy
- Great for long, empty groomers and mellow off-piste open bowls
Staying in Wengen? You’ll have easy access to two options - a cable car and cog railway to get you up the mountain each morning. The vibe is relaxed and very ski-in/ski-out. Wengen is a more reliable option for ski home compared to Gridewald, especially in early or late season where the trails back to Grindewald town may not be able to be skiiable.
Check out the resort maps and stats:
Grindelwald-Wengen - stats
Mürren-Schilthorn - stats
Did I mention the views yet? You’ll have have Eiger views like this from all over the resort, especially as most of it is above the treeline.
🚶♀️ Beyond the Slopes
Your Jungfrau ski pass opens up more than just ski lifts—it’s your ticket to a full winter wonderland:
❄️ Winter Hiking
Scenic, groomed trails wind through snowy forests and valley overlooks. It’s slow-paced, serene, and a great way to soak in the atmosphere.
🛷 Sledding (Toboggan)
There are well-maintained sled runs that run parallel to ski trails (but safely separated). You can rent sleds at any of the local winter-sports shops, and the rush is as fun as skiing—without needing poles or boots or instruction.
On mountain / Apres Ski
There are a lot of great post-ski or during-ski Apres scene - some of our favorites:
Start Bar – Located at the top of the Lauberhorn Race course on mountain – a fun scene – had a bumping DJ one day we were there.
Tanne Bar – In town in Wengen, a cozy pub-like bar with craft cocktails.
Restaurant Grindelwaldblick – Located on mountain above Kleine Scheidegg – A big outdoor deck and some of the best Raclette with views of the Eiger.
🔭 Mountain Observatories
Piz Gloria (Schilthorn Summit)
This iconic revolving restaurant and 360° observation deck sits at 2,970 m above sea level and was the backdrop of the 1969 Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. In the movie, it’s the high-tech clinic run by Blofeld—now a spectacular spot with a Bond exhibition. While most people take the tram up and down, this is skiable in-bounds expert terrain down from here to the mid point at Birg in the Schilthorn ski resort. This is included in the winter ski pass.
Jungfraujoch – “Top of Europe”
Accessible via a train from the Eigergletscher tram / railway station at the foot of the Eigher - this summit observatory offers panoramic planet-view vistas, glacier caves, and year-round snow—perfect for a leisurely stroll or just gaping at the Alps from Europe’s highest railway point. Note - this is an extra cost, not included in the winter ski pass.
👟 Best for Casual Skiers…
If you’re not chasing extreme terrain, this region has plenty to offer:
- Winter hiking & sledding
- Scenic summit visits to Jungfraujoch & Piz Gloria
- Authentic Swiss food experiences
- Unique Spectacular Bond movie nostalgia
- A great mix of intermediate and hard runs
- Off Piste terrain in-bounds
🏁 Ending Your Day Like a Pro
One of the best parts? Wengen is a true “ski home” town. Most afternoons, we’d finish our day by cruising down the legendary Lauberhorn World Cup course—straight to our hotel. It’s an unforgettable way to end your ski day.
💸 Comparing Costs: Switzerland vs. Breckenridge
Here’s a quick comparison between our Switzerland trip and a hypothetical week in Breckenridge: This feels like a good comparison - both have about 150 km of terrain. Both are good but not the most exclusive class of resorts in their area.
| Category | Breckenridge (CO) | Wengen (Switzerland) |
|---|---|---|
| Airfare | $350 | $1000–$1200 |
| Lodging | ~$3000 (6 nights) | ~$1400 (6 nights) |
| Ski Pass | $550–$1000 | Included |
| Food | Not included | Breakfast + Dinner |
| Airport xfer | Rental car? | ~$160 |
| Total | $3900–$4350 | $2500–$2700 |
🎯 Final Thoughts
If you’re willing to do a little legwork—price out some flights, email a few hotels—you can ski the Swiss Alps for less than a trip to Colorado or Utah. Plus, you’ll be surrounded by the breathtaking Alps, eating hearty Swiss meals, and gliding home on a World Cup ski run.
Don’t let the long flight scare you off — this is one ski trip that’s absolutely worth it. And if you have airline miles, even the most budget traveller can work around the cost of the flight.
Happy Trip planning! - Tara and Matt - thetravelingemptynesters.com